We all need special treats, don’t we? Last year, I began a quest to visit pousadas in Portugal. These hotels are based in reconverted castles, convents and other historic buildings in places of special interest. My first stay at the Pousada de Palácio de Estoi near Faro last February was superb, which gave me an incentive to explore more.
As it happened, my partner received a voucher for a two-night stay at a pousada for his birthday, so we were ready to take advantage of it. But where to go next? There are 34 pousadas in the country (mainly state-owned but run by a large hotel chain), each with its unique charm, but it didn’t take us long to decide. It had to be easily accessible from the Algarve and have interesting places nearby.
In mid-December, we set off in brilliant sunshine for the Pousada Castelo de Palmela, 40 km south of Lisbon. After a smooth journey, we approached the town of Palmela and noticed the castle perched high on a hilltop, clearly offering spectacular views.
Arriving up the steep cobbled slope with hairpin bends already held promises. The Pousada, our home for two nights, is a former convent adjacent to the castle. Stepping into the hotel felt like travelling back in time.
Hugo, the receptionist, greeted us warmly and said he would assign us a room on the second floor with the finest views. A lovely welcome! And he was right about the views. The spacious en-suite bedroom provided stunning vistas over the countryside and the ocean beyond. There are 28 bedrooms, seven suites, and seven superior rooms. Ours was a standard room, but I still felt spoiled by its amenities and setting.
The first thing we did was explore the hotel itself. How has an austere convent been transformed into a modern and comfortable space without losing its essence? Vaulted galleries have been converted into leisure areas, tastefully adorned with tapestries and chandeliers. I also spotted a well-stocked library and small conference rooms. Later in the evening, we had an apéritif in the bar, lounging in one of the oversized armchairs facing the courtyard. The former friars’ refectory houses the restaurant, containing the original pulpit where religious readings were held during meals. I imagine dinners are enjoyed outside in the courtyard on balmy summer evenings.
A history lesson
I was interested in the castle’s history and its link to the nearby convent. I discovered that it has a complex past that reflects the nation’s turbulent past. Standing on the ramparts, 240 metres above sea level, I understand why this location was fiercely contested. The stunning 360-degree panorama is incredible. The castle is ideally situated between the estuaries of the Tagus and Sado Rivers with expansive views including the Arrábida Mountains, the Atlantic Ocean, and the surrounding plains and vineyards.
Fertile land for cultivation attracted settlers, and evidence suggests it was inhabited in prehistoric times. Because it provided an advantageous position for defence, it gained strategic importance during the Muslim occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. The Moors began constructing fortifications in the 8th and 9th centuries. Due to the terrain, the castle features an irregular polygonal plan, with walls reinforced by turrets.
Palmela was reconquered from the Moors by the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques (12th century), with assistance from the Knights of the Order of Santiago de Espada. As a reward, the town and its domains were granted to the Military Order of Santiago. A convent was established within the castle, the headquarters for this religious and military order.
The 1755 earthquake caused extensive damage, and at the beginning of the 18th century, a new convent was built – the one we are staying in.
The place was declared a National Monument in 1910, and significant restoration was undertaken. In 1945, the former convent was classified as a guesthouse and, in the 1970s, it joined the Pousadas de Portugal chain.
Besides being enchanted by the view, other aspects can capture one’s interest. Within the castle walls, you can visit the Church of Santiago, the municipal museum and the ruins of St. Mary’s Church.
The surrounding area
Although we thoroughly enjoyed our breakfasts, we chose not to dine at the pousada and ventured into the charming town nestled beneath the wooded hill. Its narrow alleyways led to the illuminated town square, exuding a unique charm. I was captivated by the life-sized figures of local residents positioned on pavements and street corners, celebrating community achievements – from a woman promoting literacy to an ice cream seller, a town crier and a street vendor hawking his goods in his red horse-drawn carriage. A hearty meal in a family-run restaurant was most welcome.
We visited the splendid National Palace of Mafra, located 40 km north of Lisbon, during our stay in Palmela. I had always wanted to go there, and this was the perfect opportunity. It certainly did not disappoint.
Palmela is centrally located, so other day trips are possible. For example, you could spend the day in Sintra, just 25 km away, or walk in the nearby Arrábida Natural Park.
We concluded our two-day stay at the Pousada Castelo de Palmela feeling refreshed and energised. And guess what? I’ve already booked our next pousada stay.
Photos by Lena Strang
