Although the Sanctuary of Senhora da Agonia may not be as famous as other Marian shrines (shrines marking an apparition or other miracle ascribed to the Blessed Virgin Mary) such as Fátima in Ourém or Lourdes in France, its prominence has spread throughout the past three hundred years. It is now one of the most famous annual pilgrimages in Portugal and one of the country’s best-loved cultural events.
In 1674, during the rule of Alfonso VI, the statue of Senhora da Agonia was placed within the Chapel of Bom Jesus do Santo Sepulcro do Calvário. It was one of four chapels built on what was once known as Morro da Forca in the seaport city of Viana do Castelo, 386km north of Lisbon. As word spread about the relic of the Virgin Mary, faithful pilgrims travelled to Viana do Castelo in the same manner that many visit the shrine of Fátima today.
Historically, devotion to Our Lady of Agony or Agonia, also known as Our Lady of Sorrows (Latin: Mater Dolorosa), dates back to 1221 at the Schönau Monastery, in Germania, the modern-day Schönau am Königssee municipality in Bavaria. Our Lady of Agony is often depicted with seven swords piercing her sorrowful and Immaculate Heart, a symbol that stems from the Seven Sorrows of the Virgin Mary.
By 1772, seafarers from Galicia and the Portuguese coast began to make pilgrimages to the shrine to give thanks and ask for safety while at sea, given the frequent shipwrecks that suffered the torturous waves off the coast north of Lisbon.
Permission was granted in 1783 to hold a Solemn Mass within the Chapel, which had been named the Chapela de Nossa Senhora da Agonia, by the Sacred Congregation of Rites. It was then decided that 20 August would become an annual holiday in Viana do Castelo to give thanks and praise to Senhora da Agonia, the Patroness of Viana do Castelo and Vianense Fisherman.
In 1861, the Solemn Mass transformed into the ‘Pilgrimage da Agonia’ and included a full festival of singing, dancing and entertainment, slowly evolving into one of the biggest religious festivals in Portugal. The addition of fireworks in 1862 was seen by more than fifty thousand people and in the following years more extravagant forms of entertainment were introduced into the celebration including costume parades, agricultural exhibitions and, controversially, bullfighting.
Nowadays the Festas de Agosto, as it has been called, has emerged from a solemn religious pilgrimage into a fully-fledged state fair. It is now one of the biggest festivals in Minho province, taking place on the week around 20 August annually, but minus the bullfighting of days gone by. Interestingly, since 2009 Viana do Castelo has been an anti-bullfighting city, often raising awareness of animal cruelty.
With a full programme of local handicrafts, philharmonic bands, parades and competitions, there’s plenty to keep one entertained in this historic festival which attracts thousands of visitors each year. The annual firework display has since grown from a single display into many, with fireworks set off at 11 pm in various points throughout the city during the week-long event. However, the festival’s origins are not forgotten. On the eve of the Day of Senhora da Agonia, a carpet of flowers is arranged in beautifully crafted patterns throughout the streets in time for the solemn Eucharistic parade.
Held in the Adro da Senhora da Agonia on the morning of 20 August, the congregation of the parish church process to the quayside following behind the 600-kilo statue, which is placed on a float and carried on the shoulders of local fishermen, dressed in their finest plaid shirts. Surrounded by the fishermen’s wives, dressed in their regional costumes, the parade processes through the streets of Viana do Castelo, as the float of Senhora da Agonia sways from side to side in time with the solemn music, played by local orchestras. This is a time for locals and fishermen alike to gather, and give thanks and praise to the patroness of the sea and show their devotion to the Mother of God.
Arriving at the quayside, the parade is met by more than one hundred bedecked fishing vessels gathered together to receive the Holy blessing from the clergy. As the vessels and the river Lima are blessed, various ships adorned with bouquets of flowers carry the statues of Nossa Senhora d’Agonia, Nossa Senhora de Monserrate, Nossa Senhora dos Mares and Holy St. Peter down the Lima, parading in a flotilla and passing the thousands who gather on the river banks to applaud the saints. Returning to dry land, the procession continues to the Ribeira, trampling over the carpet of flowers, somewhat similar to the annual Easter procession in São Brás de Alportel. The parade ends at the courtyard of the Chapela de Nossa Senhora da Agonia, with a final bow to Our Lady by all who honour her followed by much fanfare.
Having started as a small pilgrimage of the devoted faithful, the Pilgrimage of Senhora da Agonia has now become one of Portugal’s biggest celebrations, attracting thousands each year. Its success reached a high in 2013 when the festival received the Declaration of Public Interest for Tourism from the authorities for its welcoming nature to visitors from near and far.
Whilst the Pilgrimage of Senhora da Agonia is etched in the lifeblood of this seaport city, its history is almost as poignant as the city’s unusual name. According to legend the name Viana do Castelo takes root from a centuries-old tale about a knight who fell in love with a beautiful princess named Ana who appeared on a castle’s balcony. The knight proclaimed “I saw Ana do Castelo” and hence the name Viana do Castelo was born.
So, if you’re heading up north for a spot of sightseeing, why not stop off at Viana do Castelo? This city is steeped in history and is the birthplace of one of Portugal’s best-loved festivals, which is all thanks to the mother of Portugal and Queen of Heaven.
Did you know…
The Virgin Mary is the Patroness of Uruguay, a former Portuguese colony known as ancient Cisplatina. It was under Portuguese rule from 1512 until the area was given to Spain in 1777. Uruguay became independent of Spain in 1811 but was annexed by Brazil until 1825 when it became a sovereign nation. Uruguayan Independence Day is on 25 August, and the Virgin Mary is known as the Liberator of Uruguay.
Main image: Our Lady of Agony church in Viana do Castelo © Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
