Pão por Deus, a Portuguese Halloween tradition!
The festivities of Halloween as we know them are a relatively recent tradition in Portugal. The popular and exciting American version, now celebrated worldwide, only arrived in Portugal at the turn of the millennium.
The origin of Halloween dates back to middle-aged cultures and the ritual of worshipping and celebrating the dead. Portugal, heavily influenced by its Christian roots, traditionally celebrates not the night of Halloween on 31 October but the Day of All Saints on 1 November, which is a national bank holiday.
Although modern times favour Halloween as a worldwide celebration and an excuse to have a party, you might not be aware of another festive ritual in Portugal. Pão por Deus (Bread, by God) is a tradition that can still be seen throughout the country, but it is more evident in smaller, more rural villages, where people have managed to keep these traditions alive by perpetuating the ceremony year after year.
It is said that this custom became more relevant in Portugal after 1 November of 1755 when a powerful earthquake, tsunami and consequent fire devastated the Portuguese capital, killing thousands. Those who survived the tragedy were left with little or nothing and in much need of charity.
Tradition has it that during the morning of this holiday and only until noon, children up to the age of ten gather in small groups and go around knocking on doors. Sounds familiar? Of course. But, unlike the famous treat or trick, Pão por Deus does not include dressing up in costumes, pumpkin carving or gory displays. For this occasion, children in Portugal dress up smartly and carry a little cloth bag soon to be filled with tasty gifts.
In the picture, a simple Pão por Deus bag made by my great-grandmother nearly one hundred years ago. It is still kept in the family ready to be used again.
These bags were usually purpose-made at home, with seasonal decorations or the words ‘Pão por Deus’ added. At each door, children knock and call out ‘Pão por Deus!’ Those who open their front doors are prepared to give something to the children. Offerings were traditionally bread, dry fruits, biscuits, cakes or money, and more recently, chocolates and candy. In return, children present their generous neighbours with a pleasant and well-rehearsed rhyme as a thank you.
Those who don’t open the door also deserve a rhyme. Only this time, in a more discontented and provocative tone. Otherwise seen as taking a liberty, and only allowed during this particular event, the children enjoy saying these rhymes, nearly as much as they enjoy receiving the goodies in their bags.
Although each child carries an individual bag, at the end of the tour and in true Christian spirit, all goods are put together and shared equally.
In some parts of Portugal, Pão por Deus is known as bolinhos (cookies). In anticipation of the children’s raid, villagers are known to bake cookie batches ready for their little visitors. It is possible that this is the reason for the alternative name. Although the rhymes and sayings can vary, the concept remains the same.
Thank You Rhyme
Portuguese
“Esta casa cheira a broa
Aqui mora gente boa,
Esta casa cheira a vinho
Aqui mora um santinho.”
English
“This house smells of bread
The home of good people,
This house smells of wine
Holy people live here.”
Discontented Rhyme
Portuguese
“Esta casa cheira a alho
Aqui mora um espantalho,
Esta casa cheira a unto
Aqui mora algum defunto.”
English
“This house smells of garlic
The home of a scarecrow,
This house smells of grease
Dead people live here.”
