Nestled between the neoclassical archways of Lisbon’s former Convento de Carmo walls is a small but well-established boutique, known as the last glove shop in Portugal.
Founded in 1925 by entrepreneur Joãquim Rodrigues Simões, Luvaria Ulisses has survived many turbulent periods. Even in current times, gloves, especially good quality ones, have become a relic of the past.
During the Carnation Revolution in 1974, leather gloves became associated with fascism, and the use of gloves dramatically declined in Portugal. Despite this, Luvaria Ulisses continued to supply gloves to the upper classes and tourists alike. Its founder, who was an executive for the Lisbon City Council between 1919 and 1923, understood the needs of the Lisbon people very well. He persuaded the government to construct a luxurious commercial street in the then-neglected area of the Carmo Wall under the former Convento de Carmo in the Chiado district.
While most of the premises were given over to larger shops, a small, compact shop measuring just four square metres was kept aside as the base for Luvaria Ulisses, which was later to become one of Portugal’s nationally acclaimed luxury brands.
100 years of history
Luvaria Ulissess, named after Odysseus (Ulysses in Latin), the legendary Greek king of Ithaca, who, according to Greek legend, was the founder of Lisbon, celebrates its centenary this year. It’s a milestone for the only shop of its kind, not just in Lisbon but in the whole of Portugal.
Managed today by Carlos Carvalho, a former employee who worked his way through the ranks to eventually become the owner, he explained to me how Luvaria Ulisses offers a unique experience to its customers. This ethos has ensured the company’s survival. Having worked for Luvaria Ulisses for over half of its existence (since 1975 to be exact), Carlos asked to see my hand and judged its size to be “seven and a half”. This ability to assess the exact measurement by sight is evidence of Carlos’s years of expertise.
Walking through the narrow corridor, panelled with mahogany display boxes on either side, he pulled out a tray and presented me with a pair of black classic gents’ gloves. “This is your size,”Carlos explained, as he positioned my elbow on a round leather cushion with my hand pointing upright, ready for the fitting. Dusting a little talcum powder inside the glove, he took a pair of wooden tongs, known as an abridor, and inserted it inside the glove to stretch open each finger. In one swift motion, he placed the glove over my hand and announced, “It fits like a glove”.
Amongst the original mahogany display cases, matching the shop’s preserved art deco interior, Carlos showed me the variety of gloves his company makes. Each is hand-made from the finest leather, some with cashmere lining for those cold winter months. Carlos explained that he only stocks a small selection of seven sizes to meet demand. Any colour and variation can be catered for. The crafting itself and any necessary adjustments are carried out in Ulisses’ nearby workshop in Travessa do Almada where there is a small but dedicated team of crafters.
Everything about Luvaria Ulisses oozes luxury, from the product to the atmosphere; in fact, just visiting the premises makes one feel like a wealthy businessman, stepping back to a bygone era. The shop’s interior, reminiscent of an imperial style, was created by Carlos de Alcântara Knotz, a wood carver from the former Barbosa & Costa Company, meanwhile, the neoclassical door, shop window and façade were designed by engineer Arthur Guilherme Rodrigues Cohen, who also designed other façades in the area.
Holding hands with celebrities
Given that Lisbon only endures a few months of cold weather per year, it’s mainly tourists who buy gloves these days. While gloves may not have a purpose in Portugal all year round, and fashion trends change, nothing stops the odd well-known face from popping in occasionally. From prime ministers to diplomats and visiting celebrities, everyone comes to Luvaria Ulisses to buy gloves. Carlos told me this as he packaged up my gloves with a flick of the wrist like a true showman, before presenting me my pair of handmade black leather gloves, neatly placed inside in a silky bag, embossed with the company’s logo.
When Carlos entered the business as an assistant just over 50 years ago, there were still five glove shops operating in the Chiado district alone. Since the Carnation Revolution, all but one have disappeared, leaving Ulisses as the only survivor, thanks to its exceptional personalised service and loyal clientele. The story of its survival has gained much publicity over the years. The shop is often pointed out during guided tours, and Carlos has done countless interviews in magazines like Forbes and Vogue. He has even appeared on Channel 5’s Portugal with Michael Portillo. Despite the media attention, Carlos is just as charismatic off-camera as he is on camera and eager to share his wealth of knowledge about the art of glove making. A visit to Luvaria Ulisses isn’t like visiting any glove shop. It’s a unique experience combined with an element of theatrical flair, a style that Carlos has honed over many years in the business, with a true understanding of his clients and their needs.
One would think that such a luxurious brand in the heart of Lisbon would come with a hefty price tag, however well under 100 euros is a small price to pay for a piece of exquisite Portuguese craftsmanship. With a small workforce supporting him, Carlos works tirelessly to uphold the last surviving glove makers in the country, selling gloves to people from all over the world. In today’s age of online shopping, potential customers might be surprised that Luvaria Ulisses doesn’t sell online. The reason is simple: to find the best fit, an in-person consultation is preferred, adding that extra touch of mystique and elegance to the brand. “It is vital that we fit our customers’ gloves in store,” Carlos told me, “We can’t sell online, because the fit must be exact; we want to give our customers the best experience.”
One hundred years after it opened, Luvaria Ulisses continues to preserve its heritage Portugal’s last glove shop is well worth a visit. Step back in time to experience a true glove fitting, and walk out with a small piece of Portugal’s finest craftsmanship to cherish forever.
The mystique of gloves
Gloves have been worn for as long as time itself. The protection that gloves give has served many uses over the centuries, from medieval chain gloves used by the crusaders and coronation gloves worn as a symbol of authority by monarchs ascending the throne to aristocratic gloves used on stage and screen. One of the most famous pairs, after Michael Jackson’s iconic crystal-studded glove, which he debuted during the 1983 Motown 25th Anniversary TV special, are the gloves Queen Elizabeth I wore at her 1559 coronation in Westminster Abbey. Today, they are preserved at the Fashion Museum in Bath, England. However, if it’s today’s glove fashions you’re interested in, Luvaria Ulisses is one of the most respected manufacturers in the business.
