If you set off from Cabo de São Vicente on foot and follow the 263-kilometre Historic Way, then sooner or later, you’ll arrive at Santiago do Cacém.
The town marks the most northerly point of the Rota Vicentina region, a sprawling landscape of protected land (the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina), magnificent coastline, whitewashed villages and vast swathes of farmland.
Yet Santiago shouldn’t be viewed only as a place of arrival or departure. The town is an interesting destination in its own right, with plenty to offer visitors.
Preferring to explore on foot, we followed the waymarked PR2 STC – Historic Santiago route, which meanders around the town, ensuring you won’t miss anything.
Parque Urbano do Rio de Figueira
We arrived in town on a Sunday morning in late September and parked near the charming Parque Urbano do Rio de Figueira, built on farmland once belonging to the Counts of Avillez.
The park superbly blends modern facilities, such as two municipal pools, sports facilities, and picnic areas, with landmarks of bygone times. The Baroque-style Fonte de São João Baptista was constructed in 1705 as part of the local water supply system, which included a nearby aqueduct (no longer intact).
Passeio Romano
After a tough climb, we reached the wide, cobbled Passeio Romano encircling Santiago’s castle. Pausing for breath, we gazed at the surrounding landscape. Down to our left was industrial Sines, while to our right, the bay stretched to the Tróia peninsula and beyond.
Despite its name, the promenade was constructed in the 1840s. The first car arrived in Santiago in 1895, however, driving along the Passeio Romano remained forbidden – the walkway was intended for socialising rather than being a thoroughfare.
Historic centre
The Passeio Romano delivers visitors to the town’s historic centre, on the eastern slope of the castle hill and with narrow, cobbled streets unsuitable for vehicles.
It’s rare to visit a town with such a comprehensive telling of its history. Here in Santiago, every monument boasted its own interpretation board: the Pillory of Santiago, the Old Town Hall and the Hospital of the Holy Spirit. There was the distinctive yellow and white building of the Harmonica Society, founded in 1847 to promote harmony between families who were at odds following the liberal wars, particularly the recent Patuleia Civil War.
We weaved our way around the historic quarters, discovering a new landmark around every corner. The proportions of the former municipality butchery seemed too small for its original purpose of trading and controlling meat, fish and vegetables.
We passed the Igreja da Misericórdia, built in the sixteenth century and damaged in both the 1755 and 1858 earthquakes, but less so when anarchists set fire to it in 1895. The flying buttresses on one side fascinated me; between two lies an ornate Manueline portal decorated with vegetable motifs to represent the resurrection of Christ.
Torre do Relógio is another earthquake survivor, although the subsequent cracking and bulging isn’t visible from street level. The clock tower was erected between 1667 and 1687 to house the castle clock after one of the castle towers was in danger of collapse.
Every turn revealed something else to admire. My own favourite was Casa das Heras, a manor house with its walls entirely covered with ivy and only the windows peeping through.
We mustered the energy to ascend yet more cobbles and reach the peaceful Tapada dos Condes de Avillez, where we enjoyed our picnic lunch with the palace as a backdrop and great views across Santiego’s modern neighbourhoods. The gardens were dotted with pretty buildings, including a private chapel, a ruined greenhouse and a small Swiss chalet which operated as a teahouse. Wander around and you’ll encounter the grave of a much-loved horse who died on 23 March 1924 – possibly during the clash between the rebel forces and loyalist government troops in the Battle of São João do Estoril.
Castelo de Santiago do Cacém
The hilltop castle was originally founded by the Moors but rebuilt after D. Afonso II reconquered Santiago in 1217.
We didn’t go inside the castle keep for reasons of time, but we did wander around the ramparts, taking in the views. Unusually for the Iberian peninsula, the walls were sufficiently high for this acrophobic to enjoy the experience.
Roman ruins
The ruins of Miróbriga are within easy reach of the town centre and not to be missed.
Hailing from Newport, Wales, where we have Caerleon (Roman barracks, baths and amphitheatre) and Caerwent (Roman town) on our doorstep, it takes a lot to impress me, however Miróbriga managed to do just that. The extent of the paved Roman road and the main excavations are equally spectacular. Inside a Roman villa, painted murals were clearly visible. With 60 centimetre-thick brick walls, layered with yet another 10 centimetres of cement, it’s not surprising so much remains standing.
The Miróbriga site, abandoned in the fifth century, boasts a Roman forum, a temple, public baths, a bridge, and a Roman hippodrome, which was used for chariot racing. It costs three euros each to visit the onsite museum and excavated Roman site.
