After the excesses of the holiday season, there’s nothing like an invigorating walk, perhaps taking in fresh sea breezes, enjoying the wonders of nature or hiking through a wooded hillside.
The Algarve region of Portugal is blessed with many amazing walking and hiking opportunities. There are the hillside paths of Monchique, the Pontal da Carrapateira Trail, boardwalks adjacent to the shore, the National Park trails of Barão de SãoJoão and much more. For the adventurous, the Fishermen’s Trail could be an attractive option. It’s a 226.5 km coastal trail starting at São Torpes beach near Sines, in the Alentejo, and ending in Lagos. The trail is part of the Rota Vicentina network of hiking trails in southwest Portugal. Although it is primarily a coastal trail, it also meanders inland for some of the sections. Campsites and guest houses are available along the route.
One very popular coastal path that is part of this route runs between Praia da Luz and Burgau. It’s about three miles long and fairly flat except for a manageable hill halfway along, whose summit provides panoramic views both east and west.
It was a bright and sunny autumnal day when I decided to enjoy this beautiful walk once again. Armed with a walking stick, hat, water bottle and sunscreen, I drove to the beginning of the trail near The Bull, a well-known Luz pub, and headed west. Once past the luxury villas, the trail splits into two. I prefer the option closer to the cliff edge for viewing the various bays along the route, but caution is required. Don’t get too close to the edge – those overhangs can be unstable.
Some striking stands of pampas grass, looking rather like feather dusters, adorn the edges of the trail. In spring, a carpet of wildflowers embellishes the walk, but in autumn the succulents, aloes and cacti are more noticeable. The abundant century plant (agave) is used as a Christmas tree in many tropical countries.
Along the rocky shore, shellfish gatherers were busy collecting tasty morsels, while at sea, day trippers on pleasure boats were enjoying the calm seas and warm weather. Inland, in every direction, stylish villas sat in manicured lawns.
I carried on and took care not to step on a couple of ladybugs that were taking their time to cross the path. Apparently, it’s bad luck to kill them and I think they knew it.
At one point, a flock of swallows seemed to be attacking a cliff face, perhaps foraging for insects. Most swallow species migrate south in winter, so they may have been en route.
A steep hill greets you about halfway along the trail, and here you have two options: go straight up to the summit or take a slightly circuitous and easier route. I took the latter and then climbed to the top at the sign; the trail is marked with turquoise and blue stripes at various points, so you can’t get lost. The views at the top are spectacular.
On the western side of the hill, you can look back and see a recent landslide attesting to the unstable nature of these coastal cliffs. The structure of these cliffs is made up of soft sandstone, lending itself to erosion, as clearly seen by the many unsupported overhangs. In some places, these sedimentary rocks change colour due to the differing amounts of minerals present, like iron, magnesium and aluminium, in varying states of oxidation.
Continuing west, when you arrive at the open area past the private properties, look inland. On the ridge, you can see the ruins of a windmill and some derelict farm buildings.
I decided to investigate and took a slight detour up the hill. The shaft that used to turn the mill sticks out horizontally, but the sails are long gone. The structure is open and the mechanism that once turned the millstones to create flour from grain is clearly visible.
Across the countryside to the north is another ridge where modern wind turbines are providing power for a different purpose: electricity.
I returned to the trail and continued towards Burgau. There are forts all along the Algarve, built to protect local communities against invasion from the Barbary pirates who were prevalent in the 18th and 19th centuries. One of these forts now houses the O Navegador restaurant.From its grounds, there are spectacular views of Burgau beach, the village and the rocky promontories to the west. In Burgau, there are several good cafes and coffee shops for a relaxing rest and refreshment before returning.
Note: if you don’t want to walk the full three miles each way, there are options. From Luz, you could walk the first part of the trail and then turn around halfway at the hill to retrace your steps. Or you could drive to Burgau, park near O Navegador, walk as far as the hill and then return to Burgau. There are regular buses to and from Luz for those without a vehicle.
