Julian Putley meets the locals that live on and try to protect Culatra and the Parque Nacional da Ria Formosa.
Ria Formosa is the name given to a group of barrier islands and a lagoon off the southernmost coast of the Algarve between the beaches of Garrão and Manta Rota. The area allows connection to the sea through six inlets. It was recognised as one of the country’s seven natural wonders in 2010. Its ecological importance as unparalleled wetlands, bird habitat and fish spawning grounds cannot be questioned.
On a bright and sunny morning with a fresh breeze my wife, Monique and I, took the ferry from Olhão to Culatra to investigate a unique island life and fishing community.
We managed to install ourselves on the top deck for the best views. Surprisingly, we saw dolphins close to shore and along the route were rows of oyster beds; some clam diggers were hard at work in the hot sun. Small fishing boats sped by as well as tourist excursion vessels.
After about a half hour, we disembarked at the dock in Culatra. Hordes of tourists headed to the renowned beaches on the south side of the island but our intentions were different. We walked to the edge of the village where a group of retired fishermen were sitting in a communal shaded area. We sat down and introduced ourselves. I felt lucky to have Monique with me as interpreter – her Brazilian Portuguese is better than my halting European Portuguese.
The most senior of the four, Joachim, nicknamed Sargento, was born on Culatra 76 years ago. Life was hard back then he explained. Water had to come from the mainland as well as all necessary supplies. Fish and shellfish were plentiful but fruit and vegetables were not available. Oil lamps were used for lighting. There was only a handful of people living on the island then but now there are over a thousand. All the residents are fishermen or family members with ties to the industry. He suggested we talk to Silvia Padinha, President of the Association of Residents, who fortunately was nearby doing a film project for the University of the Algarve. We were able to arrange a meeting.
Senhora Padinha explained the many issues confronting the residents. In 1987, the important Nature Park (Parque Nacional da Ria Formosa) was established. The local government in Faro wanted to demolish all the homes on the island in an effort to keep the area pristine but there was already a community here.
“We managed to rebuff their intentions but still the residents had no claim to their properties. It wasn’t until 2018 that finally we succeeded in our demands for legal 30-year deeds – but only to local fishermen and their families; outsiders and speculators were denied.”
In 2013, a group of French entrepreneurs made applications for concessions for rights to start oyster farming in Culatra’s ideal environment (it takes 18 months to grow a full oyster here instead of 36 months elsewhere). Padinha fought hard to reject these applications and eventually won the battle on behalf of the Culatra fishermen. Her rebuttal included the promise that the harvested oysters would be exported mainly to France in exchange for training and technical expertise to be provided by the French to Culatra’s young fishermen – 20 young entrepreneurs from Culatra started oyster farming, employing many more locals. It was a huge victory for the association’s president and a huge boon to Culatra.
Senhora Padinha continued to explain, “The community is relatively new, so we are still trying to get up-to-date with basic infrastructure. There are wells on the island but the water is brackish. Finally, in 2010, we achieved a piped water supply from the mainland. It wasn’t until 1992 that we got electricity. Now we are aiming at complete electrical independence using solar panels with a completion target of 2030. The EU helped us with funds to build a concrete pedestrian walkway through the village and a boardwalk. Progress is happening. There are no vehicles on the island except tractors that can drive over the sand. Lately we have seen a huge influx of tourists, mostly day trippers, but we are determined to keep our fishing industry as our primary activity and to ensure its sustainability.”
We thanked Senhora Pandinha and, at her suggestion, we walked through the rows and rows of fishermen’s shacks. One shellfish digger was bagging his day’s haul of the prized Ameijoa Boa clams. Another was mending a net. The whole area smelled of fish, and seabirds wheeled overhead.
Before heading to explore the island’s south side we decided to have a light lunch. There are several options but we were recommended to try the Mariesa, a quaint spot off the beaten track. As you might expect, there was a large selection of seafood dishes and all would go well with the essential chilled vinho verde. I had the sole while Monique chose the swordfish. We gave it five stars.
The long sandy beach is only a 15-minute walk from Culatra village. There’s a new beach bar offering shade umbrellas and loungers. From here a pleasant walk of about 4kms takes you to the westernmost village of Farol, named for its 50-metre tall lighthouse. Its claim to fame is that it was the first lighthouse to be built in Portugal: the date, 1851.
The return ferry cruised down the northwest coast passing the third village of Hangares and stopped at Farol to pick up more passengers before returning to Olhão.
This excursion was so interesting we vowed to be back. On our next trip we would plan a longer visit – an earlier ferry and later one to return.
