One Man and His Dog

It was high up in the Monchique hills where I met Dave Maier and his four-legged friend Cookie (a mixed breed White German Shepherd/Canadian Shepherd), both residents of a dog rescue centre with an adventure to tell.

Dave had worked for many years as an architect in Bavaria, Germany. Another winter was approaching, so he decided it was time for a change. He would escape the humdrum city life and exchange it for a healthy outdoor adventure. His companion would be his rescue dog, Cookie. She had been abandoned, and Dave had been her caregiver, pet and companion for the last five years. His objective: to head south to warmer climes in southwestern Europe.

Dave looked for an alternative to travelling by plane. He had always been a cyclist, and Cookie loved to go for long walks. The answer was clear: a long-distance biking adventure. After his own bike was stolen, Dave acquired his bike from a friend. It’s a very durable 14-speed steel bike with a Rohloff internal hub. Cookie had the very best ride money could buy: a Croozer, specially made for dogs.

The next step was fitting it out to carry all the necessary gear and supplies. Cookie needed special attention. In some countries, a muzzle is a necessary requirement. Other things included a harness, tick powder and a brush. A pup tent was needed and, along with a camping stove, a pot and a pan and utensils. Bedding was an inflatable mattress and a sleeping bag. Toiletries and a first aid kit added to the list.

The sporting goods store, Decathlon, was very helpful providing necessities like waterproof shoes and lightweight long trousers. During the nearly four months, Decathlon was to come to his rescue on more than one occasion.

Setting off from Augsburg, the novice adventurer decided to install two pannier bags on each side of the front wheel and two on each side of the rear wheel, in which he stored his food and water. Large quantities of pasta, beans and dried soup were essential to his diet. When everything was loaded, the bike, trailer and Cookie weighed about 100 kg.

Dave and Cookie set off on the 25 September. The goal was to do no less than 30 km per day at a speed of 8 km per hour. Cookie would walk/run about a third of the distance and then ride in the ‘Cookie Coach’ for the remainder of the time. Of course, there were rest/refreshment stops.

It took ten days to cover the 450 km to Basel, Switzerland at the confluence of France, Germany and Switzerland. They were now in France, where bike trails are well established. From here, they headed to Lyon via Besançon in cold and wet weather. When they arrived, they marked the first 1000 km of the trip, and the weather turned fine. The intrepid duo now joined a bike path that followed the river south, eventually reaching the Camargue Regional Nature Park. “Camargue is fascinating. It is known as a refuge for wild animals, and we saw bulls and cows roaming free and herds of wild horses. Flocks of white flamingos were an awesome sight in the lagoon.”

After a couple of days exploring this wild and beautiful location, they departed for Sète. The route took them alongside miles of waterfront. “I was glad to have some insect repellent, sleep would have been impossible without it. Near Sète, in a town called Béziers, I bought a new tent – my original one was too small and was now wearing out. The Decathlon team in Béziers was so understanding when I explained my concern. I was about to head up the Pyrenees – a new tent was essential. They suggested a top-of-the-line Decathlon brand. It looked strong, weather-proof and roomy and with a generous discount, the decision was made. I was a happy camper!”

It was November and Dave and Cookie were by now climbing steep and potholed tracks. It wasn’t easy going, but passers-by were very inquisitive and friendly and offered help, rides (refused of course) and food. There were spectacular views down into Spain. Before long, the pair arrived in Barcelona, where Dave met a friend and decided to move into a campsite for the night.

“There’s nothing like a long, hot shower, although Cookie didn’t agree! We spent a day here exploring – especially the Gaudi architecture and cathedral. Cookie wasn’t interested, she liked life on the trail. Barcelona is very bike friendly with dedicated paths everywhere. It took us four hours to cross the city.”

In Spain, they travelled along bike trails on old and unused train tracks called Via Verde. Their intended route had been to take them to Valencia, but they had to bypass the city because of recent floods and continue to Albacete at over 1,000 metres.

Here, Dave accessed the Workaway app hoping to find a dog-related occupation for the winter. Workaway is a platform whereby you work a set number of hours in exchange for food and lodging. That is how he found Mayday Algarve, a dog rescue facility in Vila do Bispo. The Mayday Algarve programme was created by Karen and Gerry who provide food and lodging in exchange for work taking care of the dogs and the facility.

From Albacete, they carried on to Seville via Jaén. Seville marked 3,000 kms distance covered. It was now 15 December, day 82. They’d been on the road for almost three months. A day of sightseeing in Jaén, another in Seville, was slowing down their speed – but who was counting.

Dave and Cookie crossed into Portugal at Santo António via the ferry from Ayamonte across the Guadiana River. Dave was surprised at the warm climate and different terrain of the Algarve.

Dave and Cookie spent Christmas camping in a ruin in Portimão which they found far from an unpleasant way to spend the festive season. “It was warm and sunny and very pleasant,” says Dave.

They finished their journey when, on Day 92, they biked into Mayday Algarve, having covered 3,500 kilometres. Mayday Algarve protects up to 100 animals and birds at any one time, in private woodland in the national park. Karen Breen and her husband opened up their home, created the refuge and started taking in abandoned animals from the streets, fields and a local municipal kennel to keep them safe in 2010. In the sanctuary, all the dogs live in large spaces with other dogs where they are free to run and play. They all have warm, comfortable houses under shelters to protect them from the bad weather and to give them shade from the sun.

“Although the dogs all have happy lives, we work hard to find good homes for as many as possible, not only in Portugal but also in the UK, Germany and Holland where they can become part of a family, loved and well cared for,” says Karen. Last year, the couple found loving homes for over 100 dogs.

After working for Mayday, Dave and Cookie moved onto helping at the Esperança shelter in Odemira. It’s a beautiful retreat where the dogs, two pigs and a donkey have a large enclosed playground with a pond. The dogs also have indoor spaces, where they are kept warm in winter. Evelyn started the facility over 15 years ago.