A former premiere ballet dancer, an accomplished wine writer and critic, and a talented wine producer, João Afonso, undoubtedly a man of many talents, took the time to meet with Candace Olsen and introduce her to his authentic, unforgettable wines and the story behind Cabeças do Reguengo.
Since moving here to Portugal, I’ve found it very challenging to appease all taste buds at parties or out to dinner. Wine, like art, can be polarising and most certainly subjective. Needless to say, it’s been difficult to find one wine or wines that make everyone content … until now.
I believe I’ve found the Holy Grail here in Portugal and, although they’re on the pricier side, these wines from Cabeças do Reguengo are the solution to all my (and potentially your) sommelier and wine-imbibing-in-a-group requirements. And I might add, they’re worth every penny!
Even though João Afonso, the founder of Cabeças do Reguengo, tells everyone he’s not a winemaker, he is the catalyst and the alchemist who brings the grapes from his century-old vines to life. Snuggled in an idyllic hamlet in a part of the Alentejo that is nothing like the Alentejo, the vineyards were planted between 500–650 metres above sea level in the early 1900s and are very much at home in the valley of Serra de São Mamede just on the outskirts of Portalegre.
The valley is mountainous, fresh and dotted with 1–2ha old vineyards where small herds of sheep wander with their charming bells tinkling as they feed and give back to the land. It’s pure unadulterated Brigadoon-like beauty, and I wouldn’t have believed it existed in the Alentejo if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes.
I arrived at the estate the evening before I was to meet João Afonso. They have a beautiful rural-tourism stay encompassing both the winery and the family home, which has many spacious rooms for guests, including a breakfast room, pool and a terrace.
After my long drive from Bensafrim, I was pretty tired, so I decided to stay in for the evening and enjoy my view of paradise from the large windows overlooking the valley. The sun was disappearing below the valley’s horizon and as I was about to close the curtains, I spotted the back of an agile, wiry man hopping over the vineyard fence in front of me before he jogged off up the road and away from the vineyard. I thought, is that Mr. João Afonso?
Indeed it was. Meeting João the next morning at breakfast with a pep in his step, sporting similar attire to the night before, I instantly noticed he is handsome, intelligent and has a noticeable twinkle in his eye. João definitely stands out in the world of wine producers here in Portugal with palpable warmth, a casual charm and wit, making him a pure delight to speak with.
He is also an intimidating man to write about as he was a premiere ballet dancer with the legendary Gulbenkian Ballet in Lisbon for several decades, is an accomplished wine writer and critic with more than six published books, holds a position with several wine publications as a contributor and is a beyond talented wine producer. João’s wines are so iconic here in Portugal and abroad that people in the industry say his wines are like calling cards. A signature that screams to anyone who knows his wines from the first sip that they are his.
His love affair with wine began during his time as a ballet dancer when he would arrive back home in Portugal after being on tour with aches and pains, and wine became his preferred and natural form of ibuprofen!
Intrigued and falling in love slowly with wine while still performing, he eventually became obsessed after his wife gifted him Emile Peynaud’s book, Knowing and Making Wine. The late Peynaud was Bordeaux University’s acclaimed professor of oenology and he has influenced some of the most infamous winemakers today in France and around the world. Reading the book from cover to cover while on tour, João began to dream of his next adventure.
As a retired dancer myself, I can attest that the big question that continuously looms in our minds towards the end of our careers, or when the injuries and pain begin to change our priorities, is, what’s next? And, can I reinvent myself in a way that really gives back to me what dance always has? Well, for João his new focus was, and remains, wine and I don’t think it was ever a question for him.
The adventure began in 1993 when João retired at the height of his career to much critical acclaim. Now with time, opportunity and a dream in mind, João decided to make wine from his family’s old vineyard in Beira Alta. At this time Portugal was still focused on fortified wines and few quality dry table wines were being made. However, during a dinner party of a mutual acquaintance, João met Dirk Neipoort, who was just beginning his project of making dry quality table wine at the time. With the friendship and support of a passionate winemaker from a prominent port family to bounce ideas off while setting on this new endeavor, he launched a new brand – Rogenda.
Although the brand was a success, 12 years later, he left this project and began looking for the perfect place to really put his roots down. He found an old centenarian vineyard in Portalegre that needed just the sort of care, love and attention João had to give. Purchasing the land in 2009, Cabeças do Reguengo came alive. Working only as his ancestors did before him, without chemicals, while cultivating the already-existing bush vines, his new project began.
João works 100% organically and also integrates preparations and tinctures from biodynamics into his vineyard’s cultivation. Each one of his vines, with their gnarly twisting and curving trunks, is distinctly unique and undeniably healthy. With the individual old vine parcels João owns, he harvests each plot separately and creates a field blend wine.
Traditionally, farmers generations ago planted their vineyards with many different varietals mixed together in close harmony with their olive, almond and fruit trees. The reason for this was not only to create biodiversity but to encourage a sort of insurance plan for all the plants. This ensured that at the end of the season, there was always something to harvest, as one grape might succumb to an insect, disease or birds while the others in the same vineyard might not share the same fate. Then, at the end of the season, they would harvest all the grapes at once and make a field blend of wine.
João’s old vine field blend wines are often made up of 15 to more than 30 different varietals. Harvesting as his ancestors did, João picks all the grapes at once from the vineyard to create his wine. This method is fascinating and can pose some challenges because maybe not all the grapes are at the same maturation point. Although this sounds complicated, I can assure you it is worth it, bringing a level of complexity to the wine that is extraordinary and consequently makes sense once you taste it! Most of his vineyards have more than 15+ varieties and some even have a mix of red and white varieties.
Today, João has ten different bottlings, from the lightest, freshest aperitif white to a lip-smacking curtimenta (orange wine) and a range of gastronomic multi-dimensional reds. All have a delicious and confounding complex finish that lasts a long time on the palate.
When I asked him what’s next, with a twinkle in his eye he said, Beira Alta. He has his eye on an old vineyard there. Another dream to go back to where it all started for him, his ancestral home and one of the best areas in Portugal today to make wine. I can’t wait to experience the wine he creates there!
If you taste any of João´s wines, you will 100% get the enjoyment of all the fruit and of all the varieties, those old vines dedicated their existence that year to producing in your glass.
Candace Olsen is a sommelier, fine wine consultant, wine educator and wine writer. candyleacane@me.com
The Taste Test
You can sample Cabeças do Reguengo wines at Vila Joya in Albufeira, Mato a Vista in Albufeira, Mosto in Lagos, and Sul in Burgau.
Even though I love them all, I’ll tempt you with just a few of my favourites.
Respiro Altitude Branco 2022 12.2% abv
The wine comes from three centenary field blend vineyards, the main one being 675 metres high. Natural fermentation is encouraged, and the wine sits for nine months on fine lees in cement vats and neutral oak barrels.
An alluring nose with light hints of linden flower and pear blossom. There’s a silky mouth-pleasing feel to the palette from lees ageing that gives a hint of lemon pith to go along perfectly with light exotic yellow fruit, fresh lemon, pear flesh and skin, tempered with juicy green cactus fruit anda lip-smacking finish.
Perfect with seafood, salads and Asian, Indian or Mexican cuisines.
Vira Cabeças Branco 2023 12.7% abv
This universally pleasing wine is a blend of four old vineyards (Covões 2 and 3, Carvoeiro and Tapadinha) and has approximately 16 different grape varieties.
Following a natural fermentation, the wine is aged for nine months in old Slovenian oak tonels (barrels) and neutral French oak barrels, with one-third of the wine fermented and aged in old red wine barrels. Classic, delectable, and addictive, the wine gives warm orange marmalade on the palate with notes of juicy and lightly bruised pear, apple and quince – finishing with attractive sweet beeswax and yeast notes.
Creamy and complex, it’s a roller coaster on the palate with a pleasantly savoury and satisfying, lightly bitter finish. Perfect with rotisserie chicken, scorpion fish, shrimp scampi or crispy orange beef.
Respiro Zizi Branco 2022 13% abv
A blend from four old vineyards (Covões 2 and 3, Carvoeiro and Tapadinha), which contain approximately 16 different grape varieties. This wine is allowed to ferment naturally like the others and is aged for nine months in old Slovenian oak tonels and neutral French oak barrels, with one-third of the wine similar to Vera Cabeças fermented and aged in red barrels. It delivers a heady and delightful reductive nose reminiscent of a pristine cru white burgundy with bright lemon flesh, pith and zest, ripe and under-ripe apple, and quince flesh.
The wine is old-world sweet and salty, with extreme minerality, precision and a round clay-dusted rocky finish. It would be great with oysters, lobster, sole meunière, sushi and Thai cuisine.
Solsticio Tinto 2022 13% abv
Made from a very old vineyard that was planted at the beginning of the 20th century with an altitude of 598 metres, it contains 14 different grape varieties, some of which most notably are Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir and Castelão.
This wine is aged for 18 months in old French oak barrels. Concentrated with wild red fruit, bright black and red cherries, and maraschino cherry liquor. It is complemented by a light earthy and sweet green woody note that extends throughout the finish. The wine is ridiculously complex, concentrated and perfectly balanced, with a light mineral finish.
João’s favourite pairing with this wine is the traditional Portuguese dish Bacalhau à Lagareiro, or roasted codfish with potatoes and from personal experience, I agree! Other fantastic pairings would be filet mignon and juicy roast pork loin with chestnuts and cherries.
