It’s always with a sense of anticipation that I board the train from Tunes up north to either Lisbon or Porto. It’s as though you are already on holiday before you have reached your destination. Admittedly, a five-hour journey is a long time, but the fact that the train is direct, comfortable and the cost very affordable makes it more than worthwhile.
I came across the Hotel Timbre Virtudes after an online recommendation and I was pleasantly surprised by the number of glowing reviews, even though the hotel had not long been open. In today’s ever-demanding world, consistently high reviews are hard to achieve, especially in the five-star sector. But, having worked in the industry, I like to be sure of what I’m getting and, for me, there is no better way of finding out the level of service than by contacting the hotel directly. The response I received from the reception staff couldn’t have been friendlier or more efficient, so it was with high expectations that we arrived at the hotel.
The hotel is located in the historic Miragaia region, with views over the river – best observed from their rooftop bar. Nestled into the cliffs, the Timbre Virtudes occupies a former aristocratic residence, dating back to the 16th century, the heyday of Portugal’s maritime expansion. The hotel is set back from the main street, which made it a little difficult for the taxi to find, but more importantly, it made for a quiet environment, while still being a manageable walk to the main attractions. On entering the hotel, we were immediately struck by the history and charm of the place; this carries through into the bedrooms, many of which detail the original stonework.
As with the booking, the reception/ concierge staff couldn’t have been more accommodating and were very knowledgeable about the area. The hotel provides several services, including babysitting, personal trainers and in-room massages. These are not really my thing, but they are a good way to compensate for the lack of a spa. I think it’s a testimony to all the things the hotel does right that the omission of a spa in a 5-star hotel was not missed – and this coming from someone who loves his swims.
There are a variety of rooms, all with differing appeals. But every space is thoughtfully crafted to honour the past, while offering you modern comforts which make you feel at home. We particularly liked the quality of the beds and linen, which ensured a very peaceful sleep.
Although it was December, the weather was calm and we ventured up to the rooftop Amura bar and lounge, which had spectacular views of the Douro River. The setting was certainly ideal for social gatherings or romantic evenings, but it was a little too cold for us. We headed back downstairs to the cosy and welcoming bar and restaurant, with the service being particularly attentive. We loved the open-plan wine cellar which was crafted into the stone and had an impressive selection of wines, even if the sight of so many wines was a little too tempting.
In the morning, we were treated to an impressive breakfast buffet, with a vast array of regional delicacies; our eggs Benedict was cooked to order. By night, the breakfast room is transformed into the Través restaurant. This high-end dining experience features traditional Portuguese dishes, overseen by chef Tiago Bonito, a recipient of a Michelin star for six consecutive years. We opted for the roasted duck, served with charcuterie fried rice, the Goan red chicken curry, prawns and basmati rice, the codfish, chickpeas, fried bread and collard greens – all were excellent. The restaurant was very quiet, but when word spreads, it will certainly become a destination restaurant.
Should you wish for something a little simpler, the Amura menu comprises a wide selection of snacks, from pizzas to risottos, burgers and carpaccio, and is ideal for eating on the rooftop terrace. There is also a very reasonably priced weekday lunch menu, which includes a starter, main and drink, all for €19 – excellent value for money.
We visited in December, slightly out of season, when the room rate was exceptional value for money. The hotel’s location was ideal for the Christmas markets, and the city was certainly bustling. The hotel was not overly busy, but it seemed that many of my fellow travellers intended to return. Where else can you receive 5-star service, at such competitive prices? The prices do rise in season but still represent good value.
So, if you like your hotels full of charm and history, I would recommend visiting this hidden gem, before everyone else finds out.
Written by David Woodward, Hotelier and author of ‘Confessions of a Waiter.’
