‘Where guest house meets boutique hotel.’
Having stayed in some of the more well-known hotels in Lisbon, I came upon this establishment totally by chance. To describe Toctoctoc as a hotel doesn’t do the place justice. As our taxi meandered through the now familiar streets, we found Toctoctoc situated just a stone’s throw from the attractions: it’s nestled between the Estrela Gardens, the São Bento street and its antique dealers, and the beautiful Praça das Flores. As soon as you stumble into this area, it feels as though time has stood still, such is its peaceful serenity.
What lies behind the façade?
Had it not been for the sign, I might have found myself wondering what lay behind the pretty pink façade. Inside, I was immediately hit by a pervading sense of calm and tranquillity, which made me forget I was in Portugal’s hustling and bustling capital city. The staff we met on our short stay could not have been more enthusiastic, friendly and accommodating, particularly Inga, and they were happy to impart their considerable knowledge about the city, which included recommending nearby restaurants.
Toctoctoc has ten bedrooms, all beautifully and differently appointed. We stayed in the Estrela room, made distinctive by the Jaipur wallpaper, depicting the image of someone riding an elephant in the reflection of the Maharaja Palace. The room radiated warmth and luxury, whilst still maintaining a high level of comfort, with its super-comfy bed and luxury linen, complemented by a large walk-in shower decorated with mosaic tiles. The room had the added benefit of a planted patio area. Despite its central location, we found the hotel surprisingly quiet and had a relaxing night’s sleep.
One of the highlights of the property was the unexpected courtyard garden, where, during the summer months, you are able to enjoy your breakfast, with the only distraction being the birdsong. After a day on our feet, my friend and I headed to the wooden ‘honesty bar’ in the hotel garden to enjoy a much-needed gin and tonic, whilst taking in the night air, with only the stars for company.
The following morning, we were greeted by an array of freshly made goodies on the breakfast buffet. The homemade bread and jams were particularly good, as was the milk (left to ferment in the fridge overnight with chia seeds). Eggs were made to order and we left for our day’s exploration more than a little contented.
Café de São Bento
Inga had recommended eating at the nearby Café de São Bento. What a find! Literally a minute’s walk from the hotel, it could not have been more ideally situated. We loved how we had to ring the bell to enter, not knowing what to expect on the other side. The interior was like stepping back in time and radiated elegance, with its cosy banquet seating, regal paintings and luxurious furnishings. It reminded me of Wiltons restaurant in London, where politicians, aristocrats and film stars would while away the hours in discreet corners, away from prying eyes. There is probably not enough space in Café de São Bento for clandestine meetings, but you couldn’t help but be drawn to the magic of the place. In keeping with the hotel, it seemed at odds with the world outside, which only added to its appeal.
The restaurant is famous for its steak, based on the legendary Bife à Marrare. The founders of São Bento refined the original recipe and now clients have been returning for this ‘piece of heaven’ for the past 40 years, just to savour the famous steak. I have to say the meat melted in your mouth and the sauce was to die for. Although there were many other tempting dishes on the menu, it would have been a crime not to have tried this speciality. If the ambience and food were steeped in tradition, then so was the service. I encountered a charming old-school service I thought was long forgotten, which had me positively beaming from ear to ear. These gentlemen, who made my 50-plus years seem a mere trifle, lit up the room in such a way that every lady diner must have felt like a Hollywood star. Our enjoyment of the evening will certainly hold long in mine and my partner’s memories.
So, should you wish to try something a little different, I can highly recommend the Toctoctoc, which feels like a ‘home away from home’ with its quirky charm and considerable warmth. While you are there, don’t miss out on the Café de São Bento. You will regret it if you do.
David Woodward – Hotelier and author of Confessions of a Waiter
Toctoctoc Hotel, Rua de Santo Amaro 29, 1200-803 Lisboa
