Tucked away in the rugged mountains of northern Portugal is the majestic village of Castro Laboreiro. This ancient settlement stands at an elevation of 1000 metres within the only national park in Portugal, Peneda-Gerês. Castro Laboreiro is surrounded by a dramatic landscape with steep valleys, gorges, waterfalls, crystal-clear rivers and ancient oak forests, providing a breathtaking backdrop for the village’s historic stone houses. Legends and myths reflect the village’s cultural heritage and the imagination of its people.
The scenery transforms dramatically throughout the year. In spring and summer, the mountains are carpeted with vibrant wildflowers and fragrant herbs. Autumn paints the landscape in warm hues of gold and red, while winter often brings a serene blanket of snow, creating a stark contrast against the dark granite peaks.
Castro Laboreiro’s population hovers around 500 permanent residents, a significant decrease from its peak in the early 20th century. Like many rural areas in Portugal, the village has faced the challenges of depopulation as younger generations migrate and emigrate in search of economic opportunities.
Despite this exodus, I found that the community’s spirit remains strong. Those who have stayed maintain a deep connection to their land and traditions. The village comes alive during the summer months and holiday periods when many former residents return to their ancestral homes, temporarily swelling the population and infusing the area with renewed energy.
The history of Castro Laboreiro stretches back millennia. Archaeological evidence suggests human habitation in the area dating to the Neolithic period. The village’s strategic location near the Spanish border has shaped much of its history, as evidenced by the imposing Castro Laboreiro Castle. Perched atop a hill overlooking the village, the castle’s ruins date back to the 13th century. Built to defend the Portuguese border, it played a crucial role in mediaeval conflicts. Today, the castle offers visitors a journey through time and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
In the heart of the village stands the Church of Santa Maria da Visitação, a 16th-century structure that serves as the spiritual and social centre of the community. Its simple yet elegant architecture reflects the austere beauty of the region. One of the most intriguing aspects of Castro Laboreiro’s culture is the tradition of the “viúvas vivas” or “living widows”. This term refers to the women whose husbands would leave for months at a time to work as seasonal labourers in other parts of Portugal or the world. These women who wore black clothing became the backbone of the community, managing households, farms and local affairs in their husbands’ absence.
Another fascinating aspect of life in Castro Laboreiro is the practice of seasonal migration known as transhumance, which is still practised by two local families to this day. Traditionally, villagers would move their entire households between summer pastures (brandas) at higher elevations and winter villages (inverneiras) in the valleys. This unique lifestyle, adapted to the harsh mountain environment, has largely faded but remains an important part of the area’s cultural heritage.
Walking around Castro Laboreiro, I found another local symbol, the eponymous dog breed. The Cão (dog) de Castro Laboreiro is a loyal and fierce guardian breed developed in the region. These medium-sized dogs, known for their distinctive wolf- coloured coat, have been indispensable companions to local shepherds for centuries, protecting flocks from wolves and bears.
In recent years, Castro Laboreiro has begun to embrace sustainable tourism as a means of economic revitalisation. The village’s inclusion in the Peneda-Gerês National Park has helped attract nature enthusiasts, hikers and cultural tourists. Several old houses have been converted into charming rural accommodation, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local way of life.
During my walks, I came across Senhor Manuel and his wife, D. Sara, in Aldeia das Pontes (an inverneira). Manuel emigrated to France in 1972 and returned eight years ago to care for his mother, the only person living in the village of about 20 dwellings, all in ruins. When his mother passed away, he felt obliged to honour her and all his ancestors by renovating the house where he grew up. Today, he owns eight houses which he is slowly renovating with the help of his wife.
Castro Laboreiro’s cuisine reflects its rugged mountain environment and its people’s resourcefulness. Traditional dishes often feature locally raised meats, particularly beef and goat, prepared in hearty stews or roasted over open fires. The famous carne cache, from a local cattle breed, is prized for its tenderness and flavour.
Other local specialties include smoked sausages, cornbread and dishes made with locally foraged ingredients like chestnuts and wild mushrooms. The region is also known for its artisanal cheeses, particularly the pungent Queijo da Serra, made from sheep’s milk.
As Castro Laboreiro looks to the future, it faces the challenge of balancing preservation with progress. The community is working to attract new residents and businesses while maintaining its unique character and traditions. With its timeless beauty, rich history, and resilient spirit, Castro Laboreiro stands poised to write the next chapter in its long and fascinating story.
Main photo: Castle of Castro Laboreiro © Harpagornis, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
