Donkeys are noble and intelligent animals with a long, significant history in Portugal, primarily in transportation and agriculture. Replaced by machines, they now represent a fading rural tradition, and their population is in decline. With some folk forming strong attachments to these animals, others consider them useless, and many have been cast aside and neglected. Steffi Maier and Bao Wyers care for a drove of nine rescued donkeys on their land just outside Aljezur.
Steffi, from Stuttgart, Germany, is a qualified therapeutic nurse. She arrived in Aljezur 15 years ago and worked as a carer for a woman with Alzheimer’s. Her partner Bao, from near Cologne, was visiting Portugal in 2015 when he and Steffi met. They have been together ever since.
During her first years here, Steffi, a lover of animals, volunteered at the local donkey sanctuary. She became friends with the owner, Sofia, who had been looking after donkeys for 20 years.
“Having had a lot of experience with horses in the past, I felt confident when I agreed to help Sofia with the donkey tours,” remembers Steffi. “But I had no idea how different the temperament of a donkey would be from that of a horse. At first, I was so frustrated. Donkeys are notoriously stubborn, and I was finding out how true that is. Convinced that Sofia’s donkeys were poorly trained, I thought I would be able to get them under control. How wrong was I?” she laughs. “If a donkey doesn’t want to go a certain way, well, it won’t! They are so independent and self-contained that it can be infuriating, but in contrast, they also possess a stability and stoicism that horses don’t. A horse will run away from danger. A donkey will pause, evaluate the situation with calm intelligence and respond thoughtfully. They have a completely different energy from horses. Once I got used to their unfamiliar, quirky ways, I began to fall in love with each one of them.”
Last May, Sofia generously gave the donkey sanctuary to Steffi, who didn’t hesitate to take on all the responsibilities. For the next six months, she worked hard, managing the tours and caring for the donkeys at Sofia’s place. Bao, a skilled carpenter, became more involved and he, too, became smitten with the animals. In November, through love and a deep commitment to the animals they had grown immensely fond of, Steffi and Bao took them to their land.
“It was a disaster, though,” remembers Steffi. “I was suddenly struck down with severe fatigue from the stress and the work of the previous months, and the donkeys were agitated and unhappy. I was convinced our land was unsuitable for them. It was an awful time.”
After a terrible couple of weeks, Steffi began to feel a bit stronger, but the donkeys were still unsettled. She and Bao decided to move them to a different location, but yet again, things didn’t work out, and the difficult time continued. “We had to rely on the unpredictability of landowners, and we all felt unstable,” explains Steffi. “There was only a trickle of money coming from the donkey tours and minimal funds behind us. Things felt wrong.” Then, in June this year, on an impulse, Steffi brought the donkeys back to their land.
Something shifted within the whole family; nine donkeys, two children, two cats, two dogs and two adults felt at peace. “It’s interesting that we came full circle back to our home. We are in our rightful place here after all!” Steffi declares. “I finally feel that I am living the life I should be living, and the donkeys feel the same. They have resumed their natural playfulness and curiosity.”
The family is back on track, and now it’s full steam ahead with the plans to build the much-needed shelters for the donkeys before the rainy season starts in October. Bao, who possesses a quiet strength and stability, has begun the work. He has the help of friends and volunteers, but the rising cost of wood has stalled them. A GoFundMe fundraiser has helped cover some of the costs, as has the ACCT association in Aljezur. “Our fantastic volunteers work many hours in our shop to generate money to help animals in the area,” explains vice-president Lynda Clarke. “We are all delighted to be able to assist with the building of huts at our local donkey sanctuary.”
There is still a deficit in the amount needed to buy all the wood, so support in this area would be greatly appreciated. “We would also like to offer people a chance to sponsor or adopt one of our donkeys,” adds Steffi. “Information about that can be found on our website.”
The ongoing costs of looking after a donkey are not as high as those of a horse. Hay is needed, though, as are food supplements and mineral powder, which they roll in to prevent insect infestation. Donkeys don’t need shoes as their hooves are tougher than those of horses, but hoof care is crucial for the animals. “Bao has learnt how to trim and file the donkeys’ hooves,” adds Steffi. “We now need the farrier to come only once a year to check that he has done it correctly.”
Donkey tours
The donkey walking tours offered by Steffi fall into the category of Tourism in Portugal and are focused on respecting the environment and culture. “Sofia spent many years exploring the west Algarve with her donkeys, and I am grateful to her for sharing her vast knowledge and experience with me,” says Steffi. The walks vary in length and can be guided or unguided. There is also an option for children under 40kg to ride the donkeys.
“Our best trekking donkey is Kiko, whom we call ‘The Silent King’. He was found 20 years ago tied to a tree, having been left to starve to death. He was less than a year old and was in a terrible state,” describes Steffi. “Over the years, he recovered well and is now a reliable walker. He is excellent with children, as is our lovely Xikito, who had spent much of his life on a rope before coming to the farm. We don’t know much else about his history, but he is sensitive to being touched on his rear end, which indicates abuse. Nevertheless, he is a steadfast companion for any adventure.”
Some of the donkeys were given to the sanctuary by the owners as they could no longer care for them. “Our Ralph, bless him, has a heartbreaking story behind him,” adds Steffi. “He arrived with us four years ago, having walked from the French Pyrenees. Despite his previous owner being unwell, they travelled together for one year through Spain and Portugal. Ralph was a loyal partner, but the owner had to give him up because of worsening illness. Ralph was really sad and waited by the gate for months, hoping that his owner would return. He never did. After a couple of years, he began to build relationships with the other donkeys. Gradually, he formed a special bond with Bao, but he remains a little bit grumpy!”
Donkey therapy
Steffi and Bao encourage people to spend time with their beautiful animals and invite volunteers to stay and help out. “We would especially like to collaborate with centres that look after people with disabilities and offer them the experience of being with the donkeys,” expresses Steffi.
The official name for the behavioural therapy where a donkey acts as a co-therapist is asinotherapy. “Donkeys are patient and docile creatures that enable individuals to form deep spiritual connections with them and experience genuine love,” explains Steffi. Donkey therapy has positive emotional effects, enhancing a person’s development of trust, improving self-esteem and regulating erratic impulses. Tests show that there is a relaxation of muscles and a decrease in heart rate and blood pressure after donkey therapy, resulting in a reduction of a person’s stress and anxiety levels.
“The older Portuguese people are very nostalgic about donkeys and are often overjoyed to see us with them,” Steffi remarks. “Many yearn for their companionship and have lots of stories to tell us about them. Donkeys are walking fertilisers, and the lack of donkey poo here in Portugal is also missed in the now nutrient-deficient soil.”
Donkeys, which originate from the North African wild ass, have a life expectancy of approximately 43 years. Steffi and Bao’s donkeys age from two to 18. The couple’s family is large, and they are committed to many years of unwavering dedication ahead of them. On their land, an air of serenity and contentment prevails among both animals and people. “We will not rehome our donkeys as we love them all dearly. They are important members of our family. Each one has its own rescue story behind it and is unique in personality. They are gentle and beautiful souls who deserve a serene life. Donkeys are amazing.”
Instagram: burroverde_aljezur
PHOTOGRAPHY Deep Fields Photography
