Look at the photograph above. Can you guess where I took it? Is it a lagoon in the Caribbean, the Maldives, or the Seychelles? No, it is not. It’s the Algarve’s very own Ilha da Armona!
I discovered the island this summer – how I’ve been here for so long and not heard of this place, I do not know. We only went to Armona by chance. My sister-in-law took our teenagers to Lisbon for the weekend, so we thought we’d have a little road trip ourselves. I had just sold a painting to a customer in Praia Verde and I thought ‘ooh, that’s a nice name, where is that? Does the verde bit mean the sea or the vegetation is green? If I deliver it to her myself, I’ll find out.’
We’d never ventured east of Tavira, so we decided to go wild and drive to Vila Real de Santo António on the Spanish border and follow the coast road slowly back to Lagos. Praia Verde was a stunning beach with a backdrop of pine trees that stretched for miles and the water was calm and clear and nearly warm. But the star of the weekend – and the name doesn’t do it justice (it sounds like a miserable old aunt) – was the beautiful Armona.
The island is part of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa and just a 20-minute hop from Olhão. €4.10 return, what a bargain. The ferry was heaving and when we arrived, I thought, ‘ugh, is this it?’ A small, packed beach with a noisy cafe playing heavy metal. Lots of families jumped off the ferry and set up camp for the day right there, but there was also a procession of people marching down a long path into the distance. (There are no roads on Armona, so no cars: how fabulous.) We passed colourful bungalows built on the sand on either side of the path and then, after a while, the little houses disappeared and, oh my god, it was just miles and miles of beautiful beach, crystal clear waters and not a soul in sight. In August? I know! Don’t tell anyone.
We had to run to catch the last ferry back to Olhão and we’ve been on Airbnb searching for overnight stays ever since. There are no hotels on the island, but we’re still looking. I think we’ll go back in the spring when it’s warm enough to enjoy the water. You don’t need a snorkel, you can just stand there in the sea and see every detail of every passing fish. We talk about it every day and the family is tired of watching us pull out our drone photos at every opportunity and saying to people, “Oh, you live in the Algarve, but you’ve never been to The Islands?”
SEAGLASS PATTERN CUSHION etsy.me/4era0w9
While counting the days until spring, I’ve been thinking about how to bring the beauty of an island into your home and stay uplifted through the dark days of winter. If you want to feel like you’re living in a little slice of paradise, try the palette of the ocean and the sand.
Introducing milky earthy tones alongside fresh blues and greens makes a room feel sooo serene. Think about how the golden buttermilk of the beach melts into the turquoise of the ocean, and don’t forget the peppermint spray and seafoam as the waves hit the shore. Get all those elements working together in harmony, just as they do in nature.
Of course, the islands of the Ria Formosa are not the only heavenly places in Portugal. Wherever you are in the Algarve, you’ll find sources of inspiration for decorating your home. My husband has been annoying the neighbours all autumn, playing with his new toy on the terrace. I despise that drone – it’s like a huge threatening fly with its incessant buzzing – but I have to admit I’m in love with the pictures he gets from the comfort of his sun lounger. He should be working for the Portuguese tourist board.
The picture on the left is of the beautiful Praia dos Pinheiros, one of the many coves in Lagos with rugged sandstone cliffs. You don’t have to own a drone. You can get great shots with your phone just standing on the edge of the cliffs and looking down onto the sand below, especially in November when the beaches are nice and empty.
Coastal pictures look fantastic printed on acrylic glass (a new state-of-the-art alternative to the traditional framed print). I get mine done at www.custtom.com, but there are loads of online print services these days. Acrylic prints are sleek and minimalist and, of course, waterproof, so they’re great for bathrooms and kitchens. They also make unique Christmas presents, but I have a rule in my house that nobody is to mention the ‘C’ word until 1 December, so forget I said that.
I don’t know if it’s because I’ve got Armona on my mind, but I keep seeing home decor that reminds me of the ocean lapping the sand and sunlight bouncing off the water. I’ve spotted lots of ceramics and textiles featuring beautiful translucent colours flowing into one another. Each time I find myself clutching another perfect thing and heading for the checkout, I think ‘hmm, should you really be buying this?’ And then a little voice says, ‘aah, but it’s good for one’s mental health, isn’t it?’ And it’s a lot cheaper than therapy. I feel better already. So indulge yourself – sip your tea from a giant ocean-inspired mug, immerse yourself in that watercolour painting, rest your head on wave-like cushions and create your own little island paradise …
